The Naked Vine: Father-son duo’s wines take customer from ’70s chill to ’90s jazz rap

Opus One. Heard of it?

Maybe you only know it as a Jay-Z lyric, but Opus One helped put Napa Valley’s Cabernet Sauvignon on the world wine map. First created in 1979, it was a joint venture of California’s Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, owner of Chateau Mouton Rothschild which produced the first-growth Bordeaux of the same name. Opus One was, at the time, the most expensive wine produced in California – retailing for $50. Opus One now retails for $235 per bottle.

Alas, the Opus One folks did not send along samples. But Opus One’s former cellarmaster, Mike Farmer, did. (Thanks, also, to Susan at WineGlass Marketing.) When Mike retired from his position, he and his son Lucas created Euclid Wines – drawing on his 30-plus years of experience in the wine business.

For those unfamiliar with what a “cellarmaster” does (and this included me until writing this review!) – this individual is the person who’s in charge of all aspects of production at a winery from when the containers of grapes come rolling in the door to when the cases of bottled wine go rolling out. A winemaker draws up the strategy to create a wine. The cellarmaster executes that strategy.

This father-son duo said they wanted to make a Cabernet Sauvignon as their signature wine. They currently produce a premium Cabernet (which is 97 percent Cabernet with 3 percent Syrah to round out the blend) and a 100 percent Syrah, both produced from grapes grown on Howell Mountain in Napa County.

The geometrical-sounding name of the winery is Mike Farmer’s middle name, passed down from his grandfather, Euclid Doucette. Farmer describes his grandfather as “a man of intensity, integrity and true to his word,” and he tried to model his wines after the emotions stemming from that familial respect.

There are fewer more direct examples of the market’s invisible hand than wine price points. High-end wine demands high-end prices because people are willing to shell out the cash. As any marketing student will tell you, there are plenty of ways to make wine more desirable aside from actually making a superior product – fancy packaging, slick marketing, using adult film stars to garner positive reviews and other tricks of the trade.

The Euclid 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon retails for $85, and this is one of the few wines I’ve tried where I thought, “You know, this really tastes like an $85 bottle of wine.” This cabernet is exceptionally well crafted and offers some of the most interesting aromatics I’ve sniffed.

My notes say “peaches, cotton candy, crème brulee perfumed sweetness.” Needless to say, these aren’t words that pop up in my reviews of reds very often. The flavor is exceptionally well-balanced, full of vanilla, dark fruit and super-balanced tannin. The finish was lasting, gorgeous lushness. I grilled a couple of good steaks, which I put next to some grilled beets with goat cheese and dill and it was transcendently good.

The Euclid Cab is a fabulous wine and it’s a shame it goes so quickly. I had the last half-glass in the quiet of the Man Cave while mellowing out after the Sweet Partner in Crime had retired for the evening. The wine tasted like Dobie Gray’s “Drift Away” sounds at the end of a hard day.

The Euclid 2010 Sierra Foothills Syrah is not quite as pricey as its sister Cab. The retail on this bottle is $40. Syrah is generally a couple of orders of magnitude fruitier and deeper than Cabernet Sauvignon, so I didn’t expect the same sort of subtlety we’d experienced. Even with that notion … wow, what a contrast in style between these wines.

Returning to the previous metaphor, if the Cabernet is a mellow ’70’s tune, the Syrah is A Tribe Called Quest’s “Low End Theory.” Good lawrd, I don’t know that I’ve ever experienced anything quite like this wine. The nose is typical Syrah – plums, violets and spice – although it’s really well balanced and quite pretty.

The mouthfeel is rich, thick and fruity … and then the bottom absolutely drops out of this inky, tannic monster. Imagine the warming feel of a good bourbon or scotch and convert that sensation to the fullness and depth of tannin and you’ve got this Syrah’s finish. I could feel blackness filling my chest as I drank this down. While it’s not the drying, mouth puckering tannin that it could be, it feels like a dark depth charge. Boom.

I decided to do some lamb chops as a pairing with this – and about halfway through the meal, the Sweet Partner in Crime says, “I just can’t do it. It’s too big.” Caught between the richness of the wine, the marbling of the chops and the savory nature of the fennel and caper relish I’d done as a side, the SPinC overloaded. (My Uncle Alan, in contrast, would have been in absolute heaven.) I got through my glass and, upon seeing myself in the bathroom mirror later, noticed that a single glass of the Euclid was sufficient to blacken my teeth.

We didn’t get through the whole bottle. I put a VacuVin on it and sampled it over the next couple of days. After a day, it hadn’t opened up much. After two days, some of the lighter, more vanilla aspects of the nose started to come through – even though the body was still enormous. I think it still needs more time. Make sure you decant it for at least a couple of hours before you drink it. My half-hour wasn’t enough. If you like wines this powerful, snag a couple of bottles to hold for a few years.

Aug 15, 2015 at 3:34 AM Permalink

Opus One Winemaker Launches His Own Brand

Jun 12, 2014 at 8:45 AM Permalink Be the first to comment on this post

Opus One Assistant Winemaker & Cellarmaster Unveils a New Winery

Mike Farmer announced today that he is launching Euclid Wines with his son, Lucas Farmer. Mike Farmer has been a long-time employee at Robert Mondavi and Opus One Winery. He recently retired after 35 years with the company to focus on Euclid.

Farmer started working at Robert Mondavi in 1979 as a cellar worker. When the Opus One Winery was built he worked at that location for 21 years as Cellarmaster and Assistant Winemaker. Tim Mondavi, an initial Co-Winemaker for Opus One, recalls, “I have always valued Mike’s dedication, professionalism and commitment to every aspect of the winemaking process. His logistical capabilities are excellent, but it is his winemaking skill and artistry that allows him to achieve the highest level of quality. I look forward to seeing he and his son’s Euclid project flourish for many years to come.”

The name, Euclid, is Mike's middle name and the name of his Grandfather and Lucas’ Great grandfather. Euclid Doucette was a man known for his passion, hard work and integrity - qualities Mike and Lucas wanted represented in their new venture. Euclid Wines will be spearheaded by Mike and Lucas and made in Napa. The father-son team released a small, initial offering of the 2009 vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon to friends and family last year, which quickly sold out and met with success winning a Gold at the San Francisco Chronicle tasting. This year, with Mike’s retirement on the horizon, the team decided to expand and is offering a 2010 Cabernet Sauvignonand 2010 Syrah.

Mike says his goal is to continue the journey, “I have decided to take what I have learned and focus on creating wines that are representative of the terrior. Our goal is to create wines that are elegant and long-lasting, but also delicious upon release.”

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon comes from the Clark Claudon vineyard on Howell Mountain. The Farmer’s chose this fruit for the famous concentration and bright acidity this appellation provides. The wine is robust, with present acids and tannins, and is meant to age. The Syrah also features terrior-driven fruit from the Sierra Foothills appellation. “It’s a “Cab-drinkers” Syrah, explains Lucas. “Our goal is to make something we’d like to drink.”

Both wines are made in small quantities – less than 250 cases each, and will be sold direct from their website euclidwines.com or by calling the winery at (707) 681-9463. The 2010 Euclid Cabernet Sauvignon is $85.00 and the 2010 Euclid Syrah is $40.00 retail.

About Euclid Wines Euclid Wines is a limited production, family-owned winery owned by a Napa winemaker, Mike Farmer and his son, Lucas Farmer. Euclid makes elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and other red wines in Napa. For more information go to http://www.euclidwines.com or follow them on Facebook @EuclidWines, Twitter @euclidwines, and You Tube https://www.youtube.com/user/Euclidwines.

Jun 11, 2014 at 11:09 AM Permalink